Installation Instructions - Utility Valve Boxes

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE FOR VB-4 4" SERIES VALVE BOXES

The VB-4 series of Valve Boxes are very versatile in their utility and service. Their light weight and ease of installation make it very simple for a single installer to place the valve box and bring it to grade.

It is important to know that some utilities order valve boxes which are taller than will be required in most installations. This is intentional so that one valve box can be used throughout an entire system. THESE OFTEN REQUIRE CUTTING TO LENGTH!

This is the first step in a valve box installation.

  1. Check length of valve box against the depth of trench and pipe. If the valve box is longer than the trench depth, prepare to cut the box to length as follows:
    1. Stand the box upright on a firm surface. Stand on the flanges of the base, take hold of the box just below the adapter collar, and while moving the box back and forth with your hands, lift upward. The 6" bottom pipe should slip out of the base. It is only a tight slip fit.
    2. Having previously determined the excess length of the box, you can now mark the bottom of the 6" pipe for cutting. We recommend that you cut 2" to 6" more than required, so that you will have flexibility in adjustment.
    3. You will note that the inner 4" pipe is about even with the 6" bottom section. Depending upon the type of saw you are using, you may cut both pipes at the same time, or you may remove the 4" section and cut it separately. Both pipes will need to be cut.
    4. To remove the upper pipe for cutting, merely loosen the set-screw, and lift up on the top section. It should slide out easily.
    5. Once the cutting is complete, slide the upper section back into the adapter collar, and place the 6" bottom back into the base.
    6. Pound lightly on the adapter collar or on the top service ring to seat the 6" pipe back into the base.
    7. You are now ready for the trench.
  2. The trench should be prepared so that in the area of the valve, the pipe is resting on a flat and tamped surface, which is even with the bottom of the pipe.
  3. The VB-4 valve box is designed to fit over pipes up to 4". Do not attempt to use on larger pipe or fittings!
  4. Place the VB-4 valve box over the valve, centered as close as possible.
  5. Hand place dirt around the base section of the valve box and pack to hold the box straight and level.
  6. In the event that the box is being placed over a small pipe or in conditions that the gap between the valve box and the pipe is large, you may stop the intrusion of dirt into the valve chamber by a simple process. Place a plastic bag over the base of the valve box prior to installation over the valve. Cut a small slit in the center to allow the valve nut to protrude through. Now when the box is placed over the valve, the plastic bag can be pulled up as dirt is packed around it, and the bag will prevent dirt from entering the valve chamber. A few small holes poked in the plastic will allow any water in the valve box to drain out!
  7. Final adjustment to grade is done by means of the slip joint and set-screw. The upper section can be raised to grade, and held in place by turning in the set-screw. We recommend that the set-screw be turned only finger tight, or just enough to hold the upper section in place. By leaving it barely tight, you can still manually move the upper section up or down for fine adjustment. This is important for final grade adjustment, and will greatly assist work crews at a later time when repaving takes place. If the set screw is just barely holding, the valve box can be simply lifted to the new grade, without having to use elevating rings or other methods. TO ENSURE THAT THE TOP OF THE VALVE BOX DOES NOT SETTLE, ALL DIRT AROUND THE VALVE BOX MUST BE COMPACTED TO 95% (ROCK HARD!)(ALL THE WAY FROM PIPE TO THE SURFACE!)
  8. The final step of valve box installation is the placement of concrete or bitumen around the top service ring. All valve boxes are designed to have the traffic loads transmitted from the lid to the service ring, and then to the surrounding structure (dirt or pavement). It is never intended that the tube of the valve box carry traffic loads, or that the load be transmitted to the pipe. IN ALL TRAFFIC AREAS IT IS NECESSARY TO POUR CONCRETE AROUND THE TOP OF THE VALVE BOX! It is recommended that a minimum of 4" thick of concrete be poured around the valve box, extending a minimum of 10" in all directions outward from the lid diameter. In non-traffic areas it is acceptable to pack dirt under the service ring for support, while maintaining the lid surface flush with the surrounding surface. A dirt-type of installation will not carry riding lawnmowers or other heavy traffic if the ground is wet.
  9. It is important to recognize that Federal Law (49CFR192.181 and 49CFR192.365) mandates that valve boxes used in gas transmission lines must be designed so that no surface loads can be transmitted to the underlying gas line. AMPro valve boxes are designed to meet this requirement when installed according to this bulletin!
  10. Remove the Locking Lid by first turning the pentagon nut counter-clockwise several turns. Then pry on both sides at the same time to lift the lid straight up. It is designed to require a straight lift in order to enhance the locking feature. When placing the lid back in the box, push straight down. When the lid is flush with the surrounding ring, turn the pentagon nut clockwise until it stops. Force should not be necessary, and could damage the lid.
  11. You now have a secure and sealed valve box, properly installed!

CONGRATULATIONS!

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE FOR VB-6 6" SERIES VALVE BOXES

The VB-6 series of Valve Boxes are very versatile in their utility and service. Their light weight and ease of installation make it very simple for a single installer to place the valve box and bring it to grade.

It is important to know that some utilities order valve boxes which are taller than will be required in most installations. This is intentional so that one valve box can be used throughout an entire system. THESE OFTEN REQUIRE CUTTING TO LENGTH!

This is the first step in a valve box installation.

  1. Check length of valve box against the depth of trench and pipe. If the valve box is longer than the trench depth, prepare to cut the box to length as follows:
    1. Stand the box upright on a firm surface. Stand on the flanges of the base, take hold of the box just below the thread collar, and while moving the box back and forth with your hands, lift upward. The 6" bottom pipe should slip out of the base. It is only a tight slip fit. If the box came to you with the bottom in an unassembled state, you may be able to determine the length to cut before assembling the box.
    2. Having previously determined the excess length of the box, you can now mark the bottom of the 6" pipe for cutting. We recommend that you cut 2" to 6" more than required, so that you will have flexibility in adjustment.
    3. Once the cutting is complete, place the 6" bottom back into the base.
    4. Pound lightly on the top of the 6" pipe to seat the 6" pipe back into the base.
    5. You are now ready for the trench.
  2. The trench should be prepared so that in the area of the valve, the pipe is resting on a flat and tamped surface, which is even with the bottom of the pipe.
  3. The VB-6 valve box is designed to fit over pipes up to 8". Do not attempt to use on larger pipe or fittings!
  4. Once you know the size of pipe you will be mounting over, it is necessary to remove the proper knockout panels on both ends of the base enclosure. For 2", 4" or 6" pipes, remove the panel by tapping firmly with a hammer on the back side of the knockout, near the top. The selected section will pop out relatively clean. Any rough edges can be smoothed with a knife or file. If the valve box will be mounted on an 8" pipe, remove the entire end panel. It simply clips in place, so it can be removed with a hammer or screwdriver.
  5. Place the VB-6 valve box over the valve, centered as close as possible.
  6. Hand place dirt around the base section of the valve box and pack to hold the box straight and level.
  7. In the event that the box is being placed over a small pipe or in conditions that the gap between the valve box and the pipe is large, you may stop the intrusion of dirt into the valve chamber by a simple process. Place a plastic bag over the base of the valve box prior to installation over the valve. Cut a small slit in the center to allow the valve nut to protrude through. Now when the box is placed over the valve, the plastic bag can be pulled up as dirt is packed around it, and the bag will prevent dirt from entering the valve chamber. A few small holes poked in the plastic will allow any water in the valve box to drain out!
  8. Rough adjustment to grade is done by means of the slip joint and set-screw. The upper section should be threaded about halfway down the sliding collar, when length permits. The upper section can be raised to grade, and held in place by turning in the set-screw. We recommend that the set-screw be turned firmly. Final adjustment can be made by rotating the top section, and letting it move up or down on the threads. This is important for final grade adjustment, and will greatly assist work crews at a later time when repaving takes place. Where it is necessary to extend the valve box to its heigth limits, it is acceptable to have the sliding thread collar only engaging about 1" of the 6" pipe. The top section can be rotated upwards until there is only engagement on the top thread. This will provide the maximum depth of trench for a given design. If greater depth is needed, it is permissible to remove the 6" pipe from its base, and add an extra pipe and collar joined to the original pipe. The 6" Schedule 40 pipe which was originally supplied with the valve box can also be replaced by a longer or shorter replacement pipe, of the same specifications, without harm to the installation. In this way it is possible to use the valve box for applications up to 20 feet deep, or greater. TO ENSURE THAT THE TOP OF THE VALVE BOX DOES NOT SETTLE, IT IS ESSENTIAL TO PACK ALL DIRT AROUND THE VALVE BOX TO 95% (ROCK HARD!)
  9. The final step of valve box installation is the placement of concrete or bitumen around the top service ring. All valve boxes are designed to have the traffic loads transmitted from the lid to the service ring, and then to the surrounding structure (dirt or pavement). It is never intended that the tube of the valve box carry traffic loads, or that the load be transmitted to the pipe. IN ALL TRAFFIC AREAS IT IS NECESSARY TO POUR CONCRETE AROUND THE TOP OF THE VALVE BOX! It is recommended that a minimum of 4" thick of concrete be poured around the valve box, extending a minimum of 10" in all directions outward from the lid diameter. In non-traffic areas it is acceptable to pack dirt under the service ring for support, while maintaining the lid surface flush with the surrounding surface. A dirt-type of installation will not carry riding lawnmowers or other heavy traffic if the ground is wet.
  10. Remove the Locking Lid by first turning the pentagon nut counter-clockwise until it stops. Do not force it! Then pry on both sides at the same time to lift the lid straight up. It is designed to require a straight lift in order to enhance the locking feature. When placing the lid back in the box, push straight down. When the lid is flush with the surrounding ring, turn the pentagon nut clockwise until it stops. Force should not be necessary, and could damage the lid.
  11. You now have a secure and sealed valve box, properly installed!

CONGRATULATIONS!


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